Substitutes For Bosch Grease

Several months ago I overhauled the ignition sensor canister “bean can” on my 1984 BMW R100RS.  I describe that process in a seperate entry in this blog – available HERE.  Robert Fleischer’s excellent web site has an article reporting that the grease for this unit’s bearing is Bosch  FT1-V22 or FT1-V26.  You can read Fleicher’s article HERE.

BMW’S OEM shop manual also lists this grease for this application – listed as “Bearing journal for centrifugal advance.”  It specifies Bosh Grease FT1-V26.

Internet searches reveal that Bosh greases have new part numbers – FT1-V4 for distributer cam lobes is also referred to as 5-700-002-005.  FT1-V26 is 5-700-005-005.

I was able to find quite a few references to 5-700-002-005, and was even able to purchase a (large) tube of Bosh grease with the original label FT1-V4.  Unfortunately, as my motorcycle has electronic ignition, I don’t have a need for it.  I found no datasheets for any Bosch greases.

Without a datasheet, it’s difficult to identify a proper substitute.  The closest to a substitute recommendation I found is a German language forum in Europe where one fellow suggests a substitute for FT1-V22 with a different grease found on eBay.  The message thread is HERE.  Unfortunately, this substitute product is unavailable for shipping to the USA.  And I couldn’t find this product anywhere else.

Without an known substitute to Bosch FT1-V22 or Bosch FT1-V26, I elected to use BMW’s “wheel bearing and small parts” grease when I overhauled my ignition sensor canister.  (BMW part number: 82000419622)  The datasheet for this grease lists a “upper service temperature” of 284F.  The datasheet for this grease can be viewed HERE.  It seemed like it was a safe bet for this application.  I learned that this was a mistake.

I experienced no trouble riding the motorcycle about 2,000 miles after this ignition sensor canister overhaul.  However the engine quit from apparent ignition failure when running in my garage for about 20 minutes.  (I was conducting a test of battery voltages at various RPMs with my headed riding gear connected and on.)

I suspected the hall effect sensor in the ignition canister had failed due to excessive heat – not unlikely due to its age.  I ordered a replacement, but before installing it I wanted to see if the failure would repeat.  And I wanted to know what the motorcycle’s temperatures were leading up to the failure.

I removed the front lower fairing panel and the front engine cover, and conducted a test of temperatures at four points using an infrared thermometer.  After starting the cold engine in 51F ambient temperature, recorded the temperature every 2 minutes at the exhaust flange nut, the cylinder cooling fins, the oil cooler and the ignition sensor canister.  After 29 minutes the engine again stopped due to apparent ignition failure.

The recorded temperatures are displayed in this graph:

 

At 29 minutes the ignition sensor canister exceeded 300F.  I decided to compare this to the operating temperature range in the hall effect sensor’s datasheets.  Fleischer’s article on ignition lists the hall sensor to be either a Honeywell 2AV54 or a Siemens HKZ101.  Fleischer’s article is available HERE.

The data sheets for both these hall effect sensors show that 300F exceeds the operating limitation of both devices.  Links to these datasheets are here:

Honeywell 2AV54 Datasheet

Siemens HZK101 Datasheet

The datasheet report the hall sensor’s operating temperatures of up to 150C to 160C – which converts to about 300F to 320F.  This suggests that my motorcycle’s hall sensor failed due to being over temperature, and may not have failed due to age or other malfunction.

According to it’s datasheet, at 300F the ignition canister temperature exceeds the BMW grease’s 284F upper service limit.  I don’t know if grease failure contributed to the high temperature of the ignition canister, but regardless, the BMW grease left no margin of safety.  I disassembled the ignition canister and found evidence that the BMW grease had liquified.

The only other possibility for a substitute grease on my shelf is MOTUL Tech Grease 300.  It’s datasheet lists a temperature limit of 302F and a peak temperature of 428F.  It’s datasheet is available HERE.  This would have been a better choice than the BMW grease I had used.  But something with an even higher temperature limit would be even better.

The problem for me choosing a grease substitute is that I’m not knowledgeable about grease applicability.  I found an informative message thread about this particular issue HERE.

I discovered an application chart for a line of grease products made by Dow Corning that offers some help. The chart (available HERE) lists Dow Corning Molykote grease products by application (gears, ball bearing, busings, etc.) and information about the specific properties, limitations and example usages of each product.

Molykote BG 20 High Performance Synthetic Grease is listed as a general purpose synthetic grease for metal-to-metal plain metal bearings, bushings and sleeves. It’s temperature range is -50F to 360F.

Molykote 44 High Temperature Bearing Grease is listed as a high temperature grease with an operating range of -40F to 400F.

Both these products are available on eBay and other vendors for about $25 for a 150 gram tube.  I ordered one tube of each from Motion Industries.

Parts is Parts

This table lists vendors who provided parts and excellent service to me on my various projects. Of course it’s only a partial list out of the vast number of excellent vendors – but it’s the ones I’ve had the opportunity to use so far.

VENDOR DESCRIPTION
MAX BMW
www.maxbmw.com
BMW Motorcycle dealership in New England with four locations. Excellent online ordering with OEM fiche enhanced with photos and technical information.
On a trip to Maine last year I dropped into two dealerships.  In North Hampton I got to meet Drew Batson and Rusty Gill.  Drew has handled most of my internet orders, and is very responsive to any special requests regarding availability and shipping.  Rusty Gill has been a great resource in researching the few questions that have surfaced about OEM parts.
In one of their two Conneticut locations I was impressed by the wall of beautiful parts drawrers – where their parts man found exactly the wiring harnes component I wanted for my R1200ST.
moto-bins
www.motobins.co.uk
BMW parts vendor in the UK with good pricing, availability and international shipping. Common OEM service and alternative parts for most BMW models.  I’ve had some trouble on how their website links to PayPal, but their sales staff responded quickly with a manual order via email.
Ted Porter’s Beemer Shop
www.beemershop.com
I’ve been amazed at the level of personal attention and service that Ted Porter has provided me. I’ve had both a bike serviced in his shop and ordered custom Wilbers shocks. Few do it better.
Spiegler Performance Parts
spieglerusa.com
Top quality stainless brake lines and other performance parts. Excellent customer service with very knowledgable and helpful staff.
BING Agency
www.bingcarburetor.com
This is the factory authorized franchise in the USA for OEM carburetor parts, upgrade parts and technical information. They’ve been very helpful with my telephone inquiries.
Northwoods Airheads
www.northwoodsairheads.com
Tools and parts for common BMW Airhead services. A good selection of upgrades and reproduction parts.
Duncan’s Beemers
www.duncansbeemers.com
An amazing assortment of used BMW motorcycle parts.  I had the pleasure of meeting Duncan at his shop – I was impressed by his inventory, knowledge and helpfulness.
Cycle Terminal
www.cycleterminal.com
A vast selection of hard to find electrical components. Fast and helpful service.
Eastern Beaver
easternbeaver.com
Excellent headlight relay kits. Many other electrical parts and tools. This vendor is in Japan, but is as easy to work with anyone domestic. Very responsive to technical inquiries.
Wiring Products
www.wiringproducts.com
Huge selection of wire and related products. My wire orders were custom packaged and labeled with my name and wire specifications. Impressive.
Clips And Fasteners
www.clipsand fasteners.com
When I needed longer 3mm screws to make it easier to install the clamps on the drive-shaft boot on my R100RS, this vender had exactly what I wanted – stainless with an allen head.
Mr Injector
www.mrinjector.us
I used this vendor to clean and calibrate the injectors on my K100RS.  I also purchased substitute injectors originally used on the Ford Ranger.  The owner was helpful with my technical questions and provided good parts and service.
Battery Mart
www.batterymart.com
I’ve had good luck with AGM batteries from this vendor. They offer a battery that is almost a perfect size match for the OEM BMW flooded battery. Free shipping and great prices.
Overseas Speedometer & Instrument Service
speedometer.com
When the speedometer in my ’84 R100RS striped a nylon gear, this fellow did a great job repairing it. I can’t remember how I found this vendor – I’ve seen almost no on-line references to this vendor.
Race Tech Suspension
www.racetech.com
After reading Paul Thede’s book, The Motorcycle Suspension Bible, I am much better informed about how to equip and set-up my bike’s suspensions.  I’ve also visited their factory, shop and warehouse in Los Angeles.
I’ve had great success with Race Tech “Gold Valve” cartridge emulators on my K100RS and other bikes with damping rod forks.
The Race Tech website allowed selecting proper spring rates to achieve correct sag for my weight.  The Race Tech website and tech support make it easy to find the right parts.
An article in Motorcycle Classics detailed Race Tech’s upgrade to the forks and sliders of an older Laverda. Similar to my K100RS, this Laverda’s sliders don’t have bronze bushings, and rely on metal to metal contact between the fork tube and slider. Race Tech had the sliders on their Laverda project hard annodized to reduce friction and stiction.  I’ve had them do the same on my K100RS and will likely do the same on my R100Rs.
RKA Luggage
www.rka-lugghage.com
Several years ago I had the pleasure of meeting Richard and Kathleen (the “R” and “K” in RKA) at their home while they were temporarily without a storefront. RKA is a big supporter of the BMW community – and had just the right tank bag for my new-to-me K100RS.  Richard was super helpful helping me get the bag installed – which as a newbie to the bike was very appreciated.
Twisted Throttle
www.twistedthrottle.com
I mention Twisted Throttle because I’m a fan of SW-Motech products and I’ve had good luck with them sourcing both SW-Motech and Givi products for R1200ST.  I hope to adapt an SW-Motch “ALU RACK” to my R100RS. Revzilla also sells SW-Motech products
BoxerWorks
www.boxerworks-service.com
Nathan Mende’s shop is always a beehive of activity – and it’s fun just to walk through and see what’s going on. There’s a treasure trove of used parts up in the attic – I bought a speedometer there to use while I was getting the one on my R100RS repaired.  I don’t know the mechanics presently working at BoxerWorks, but when Dean Graham was there, he did an excellent job overhauling my R100RS’s bevel drive and installing time-serts to repair striped threads on the filler plugs.
Blue Moon Cycles
www.bluemooncycle.com
This was my local go-to shop for OEM parts until they sold their dealership to Hourglass Cycles.  Its presently where Dean Graham works – so it’s likely to be my local go-to shop for jobs beyond my skill and experience.
Euro Motorelectrics
www.euromotoelectrics.com
This shop had just what I needed – a replacement plug for my ignition sensor. I got a quick response back on a Sunday!

While the list above is primarily a source for “products” – many vendors are sources of both parts and services.  I was forwarded these two links to lists of vendors who service to Airheads like my ’84 R100RS.
www.airheads.org – Airhead Capable Vendor List
ibmwr.org – Independent BMW Motorcycle Wrenches
Following #6 of the Airhead Club Cannons, I try to do as much work on my bikes as possible.  But I couldn’t succeed without some of the extraordinarily talented mechanics and their shops.

BMW Service Information Bulletins

BMW has released collections of Service Information Bulletins for motorcycles built in the 80’s (plus or minus a few years) on two CD products.

I was able to purchase the fist CD (version 1.0) about a year ago.  It was obvious incomplete, but had quite a bit of useful information – particularly for my ’87 K100RS. As the CD includes Service Information Bulletins from the 80’s, it also covers R series motorcycles.  I recently discovered a second CD was produced, version 1.1.  I ordered it from MaxBMW, but the order was cancelled and refunded – I’m not sure of the status of this product.

I’ve come across various BMW Service Information Bulletins posted here an there on the Internet – but haven’t found anything comprehensive.  There may be copyright issues in sharing these – but I’m suspicious of BMW really wanting to restrict the access to this information.  After all – it’s a gold mine for owners of old bikes wanting to maintain and restore them – and buy new parts.  That – and all the bikes covered are clearly well off warranty – and unlikely to produce new warranty service claims.
This screen image below shows the two CD’s on the MaxBMW fiche for ’84-’89 K100RS motorcycles in the “01-Literature” section titled:
01_0985 – REPAIR/SERVICE/MAINTEN. NON-CAR-SPECIF.

The part number for CD version 1.0 is 01-99-0-022-037.  CD version 1.1 is part number 01-99-0-022-038.

Here’s the version 1.0 CD:

Taper Bearing Preload

Changing the rear tire on my ’84 R100RS I discovered a bad rear wheel bearing.

The process of learning how to remove, install and adjust new bearings was aided by Duane Asherman and Robert Fleischer.  Both men have made exhaustive studies of this service, documented them on the web and were very kind to assist me via email.  And Robert Fleicher’s encyclopedic www.bmwmotorcycletech.info covered both setting preload and removing and installing bearings in extraordinary detail.

I was fortunate to discover that my 1984 model R100RS has wheels that allow removal and installation of wheel bearing without first heating the hub.  Removal was a simple matter of using a 30mm blind bearing puller, and installation using a standard race installation driver  – both quite inexpensive tools on eBay or Harbor Freight.

The bearings on my R100RS’s wheels are taper bearings – similar to the ones I used to lube on my first car – a ’67 Ford Mustang. The preload setting on the old Ford however was a simple process of tightening the castle axle nut and then backing it off a quarter turn, and installing a cotter pin through the castle nut.

I learned from Mr. Asherman that the taper bearings on my R100RS are so over designed for this application, that I probably didn’t need to be much more scientific to get this job done and still get good service life from new bearings.  But I couldn’t resist doing the preload adjustment to the specification of 15 to 30 newton-centimeters. (about 21 to 42 ounce-inchs)

In a nutshell, adjusting the taper bearing preload on my motorcycles wheels was a simple matter of selecting the proper size spacer (referred to as the “wedding band” spacer) that controls the space available between the inner and outer bearings’ races once the axle nut is tightened.

There are two tricks involved with measuring the bearing preload. First spacers must be used to allow tightening the axle nut while the wheel is not installed on the bike.  I elected to use one of the suggested methods – I bought a dozen “top hat” spacers employed on the axles that could be stacked along the axle to take up the necessary space.  This might have been more expensive than one of the other suggested methods such as cutting a tube to length.  But the “top hat” spacers were cheap enough – and super easy to use.

The second trick is to measure the torque required to rotate the axle after the wheel was assembled with new bearings and spacers and the axle nut properly torqued.  Both Asherman and Fleischer advocated different methods – and I came upon a third after searching YouTube for videos about setting taper bearing preload.

My method was to use a dial torque meter.  I was able to find a used one on eBay for under $100.  The Snap-On TQS-025 is scaled in inch-ounce from 0 to 48 – perfect for this job.  It’s 1/4″ drive allowed me to attach a socket to fit the axle nut, and rotate the axle to take the torque measurement.  The “tell-tale” on the TQS-025 recorded the maximum torque registered while rotating the axle.
This video shows how I used the TQS-025 to measure preload – indicating 26 Inch-Ounces. Note the stack of “top hat” spacers to allow tightening the axle nut.

I also tried a different tool – a Proto 6104, a torque limiting screwdriver.  This tool allows setting a maximum torque on the inch-ounce scale (0 to 100) using a setting similar to a “clicking style” torque wrench.  This tool can be used to bracket the torque of the axle by choosing settings lower and higher than the actual preload torque.

The Proto 6104 was a little more expensive than the Snap-On TQS-025, and less precise in measuring preload torque.  But it probably has more useful applications in the workshop – specifically not allowing drive shaft filler plugs to be over-torqued.

This video shows the Proto 6104 set to 22 inch-ounce and not rotating the axle because the preload exceeds that torque value.  Note the stack of “top hat” spacers used as a single spacer to allow tightening of the axle nut:

This video shows the Proto 6104 set to 24 inch-ounce and rotating the axle – indicating that the bearing preload is less than this value:

These two tests allow “bracketing” to test the preload of the taper bearings.